Waterton Lakes National Park: A Hidden Gem Just North of Glacier

mother bison and calves in the golden light

Waterton Lakes National Park has always been one of those places that somehow slipped through the cracks for me. I’d always thought, “If I’m going to drive that far south, I may as well just go to Glacier National Park instead, right?” But this spring, my buddy @matthew.littlewood and I finally decided to change that. We packed our gear, crossed our fingers for clear skies, and set out for a couple of nights in Waterton, hoping to catch some astrophotography magic and soak in the wildlife and wide open landscape.

Elk passing through an open field near the road

What blew my mind immediately was how many times I’ve driven past the Waterton turnoff and never taken it. As soon as you round that final bend into the valley, the view just opens right up. It felt like we were driving into a place still recovering from an old wildfire, maybe 20 years back. Because the whole valley feels wild, raw, and spacious. I honestly wish the Bow Valley in Banff felt this open. You can actually see everything, which explains why Waterton has such a reputation for wildlife sightings, especially bears.

Rustic and photogenic waterton townsite

When we arrived at the townsite, we were stunned by how quiet it was. It felt like a secret. Just a few hours from the hustle of Banff and you’ve got a lakeside village surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery and almost no people. While we didn’t catch a glimpse of any bears, the signs of their presence were everywhere. And between the deer, foxes, and even bison, it didn’t feel like we missed out at all.

First Impressions, Bison Encounters & A Windy Sunset

Bison Grazing in a field

We spent our first evening scouting the area, looking for good sunset and night photography spots. As golden hour approached, we headed out to the bison paddock. For me, this was one of the trip’s major highlights, getting up close to these massive animals in such a relaxed and open setting was incredible. It reminded me of Yellowstone, where the bison are everywhere and completely unbothered by your presence.

Baby bison in a field of flowers

For sunset, we made our way down to the lake shore near the townsite to try and capture the vibrant shoreline rocks. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate it was windy and overcast, and the sunset was a non-event. But we held out hope for the night.

Waterton at night

And luckily, that paid off. We returned to the lake under clearer skies, and despite a bit of lingering wind, we were able to capture some decent astrophotography. Waterton’s lack of light pollution and wide-open skies make it an excellent place to shoot stars.

Waterton at night

Sunrise, Horses, and Red Rock Canyon Magic

Windy sunrise by waterton lakes

The next morning came way too early but we were determined. We headed back down to the lakeside rocks for sunrise. It was a cold, early start, but absolutely worth it. After getting the shot, we went back into town to refuel with some much-needed coffee before a full day of exploring.

We stopped by Red Rock Canyon mid-morning. Even in harsh midday light, it was stunning, but we both agreed to come back later when the light would be softer. From there, we made our way to Alpine Stables for a horseback ride.

Horse riding in waterton

Now, full disclosure… I’m terrified of horses. But the crew at Alpine Stables was great, and the horses were calm and easy-going. I actually found myself relaxing and enjoying it. We chose the one-hour ride, but honestly, I wish we had gone for a longer one. If you're planning to ride, I'd recommend opting for a longer tour and trying to book a quieter time slot. the fewer people, the better the experience.

Horse riding in waterton national park

After the stables, we returned to Red Rock Canyon for sunset and astrophotography. That golden hour drive into the canyon was unreal! the kind of light that makes you want to stop the car every five minutes. Once the stars started appearing, the canyon lit up in a way that’s hard to describe. The bedrock, when illuminated just right, absolutely glows. It’s a dream for any astrophotographer.

Golden hour on our way to red rock Canyon

Astrophotography in Red Rock Canyon Waterton

Final Thoughts

Waterton surprised me in the best way. The landscape is wide open, wildlife is abundant, and there’s still this sense of peace and solitude that’s becoming rare in the Rockies. I’m already planning a return trip. ideally with clearer skies and more time to explore. If you're into photography, hiking, or just want to escape the Banff crowds without sacrificing natural beauty, Waterton should be at the top of your list.

Astrophotography, waterton national park